“Daaru” and “Chakna” are essential terms associated with Indian drinking culture. The first is a colloquial term for any type of alcohol, while the latter refers to the snacks/sides often served along with the drinks. One may draw a comparison to the combo of cocktails and small plates frequently found at popular bars nowadays, but the essence of “daaru chakna” is decidedly desi and diverse – and this is what is celebrated at Bombay Daak. This bar in Bandra is helmed by Chef Niyati Rao and Sagar Neve (the duo behind the award-winning Ekaa), with Yathish Bangera as the Head Mixologist.
The menus feature regionally inspired delicacies, and most have anecdotes associated with them. “I have always been enamoured with the drinking ‘kissa’s’ [stories] of many relatives and close friends and people in general – and how different yet vibrant they all are,” reveals Chef Niyati. Many of these discoveries sourced from her community have informed the curation of the menu. The team also conducted months of research across the country to understand the intricacies of regional drinking traditions, their ingredients and their history. And they focused not only on the alcohol but also on the numerous types of dishes it is commonly paired with. The bar’s name contains a travel motif too. It is a reference to Bombay Duck or ‘Bombil’ – a local fish often consumed along with alcohol in pre-colonial times by people belonging to the Koli community. The fish used to be transported to Kolkata (then Calcutta) via a train service known as Bombay Daak (‘Daak’ means ‘mail’ in Hindi).
Photo Credit: Nikhil Vaidya
Bombay Daak blends pre-colonial Indian charm, Japanese izakaya seating and a homely ambience. It’s not just the food and drink – every element of the decor and ambience evokes nostalgia and enhances the overall charm of the bar: sugarcane juice glasses, engraved aluminium bill boxes from Gujarat, custom ceramic cups crafted by local artists, rustic steel plates, hand painted kitchen tiles, etc. Other unique elements include a Gymkhana club-style “donor board” (with names of those who contributed to the bar’s vision) and vintage lamps sourced from Chor Bazar – the latter used to be a feature at British gentleman’s cigar whiskey bar in the 1900s.
Photo Credit: Nikhil Vaidya
Bombay Daak’s drinks tasting menu offers an interactive and immersive experience, allowing guests to engage with the chefs and mixologists in an open kitchen setting. The a la carte menu includes hyper-local drinks as well as “Swadeshi Sips” – house-made spirits that pay tribute to traditional Indian liquors in a creative way. Each option has been carefully sourced, crafted and presented. “One of the most fascinating discoveries during our travels was in Coorg, where locals craft Bird’s Eye Chili Wine – a fiery yet fruity concoction that inspired our Parangi Malu cocktail, paired with jackfruit and coffee bitters for depth. And from Nagaland, we bring you Zutho – a drink inspired by a family-guarded recipe made with rice, ranu, and water, offering a taste of the region’s rich fermentation culture,” Yash explains. Other highlights include cocktail versions of iconic local delicacies. For instance, The Whistle Podu (gin, Rasam Powder Hydrosol, Amaro, Caramalised Tomato) is a ‘savoury’ alcoholic take on South Indian Rasam. Similarly, the Pahadi (with Tequila, Spiced Gin, Whey, Cucumber Juice, Buransh, Clarified Mint Cordial, Mustard Hydrosol) has been inspired by Kumaoni raita!
Photo Credit: Nikhil Vaidya
The chakna menu is an equally rich tapestry of flavours and stories from across the country. Chef Niyati deftly transforms traditional forms of these bar bites while striking a balance between authenticity and adaptability. She explains, “We start by respecting the integrity of regional flavours – the spices, techniques, and pairings that define them – while thoughtfully reinterpreting them to resonate with a cosmopolitan palate. This means refining textures, calibrating spice levels, and sometimes deconstructing traditional elements.”Every guest is offered some free chakna to start with: crisp potato papad dusted with a special masala made by Chef Niyati’s mother and crushed schezwan chakli which is another kind of nostalgic nod. There’s ample variety not just in terms of vegetarian and non-vegetarian ingredients, but also in terms of other preferences.
Photo Credit: Nikhil Vaidya
If you can handle fiery delights, the potent Zhanzanit Kakdi should be no challenge. Instead, if you need something calming and wholesome, go for the Tangra Hangover. This vegan offering features soy-stuffed wontons enveloped in an aromatic sesame emulsion. We’re told it has been inspired by Chef Niyati’s stepfather, who used to head to Tangra at 3 am to relish wontons and noodle soup as his preferred “hangover breakfast” after drinking. The Wai-Wai is another noteworthy snack and it’s made with 23 different ingredients. The team calls it “A Manipuri teenager’s rite of passage to adulthood and drinking.” More specifically, it was inspired by Singju, a kachumber often enjoyed with the local liquor over there.
Photo Credit: Nikhil Vaidya
Among the seafood, don’t miss the signature Bombil, Bumaloo, Bombay Duck. The bar’s eponymous ingredient is plated as crisp fried bites topped with kismoor and crushed nori. Meat lovers can discover the distinctive texture of Meghalayan Smoked Pork by ordering the hearty Pork & Smoke. If you’re just dropping by for a quick bite and drink, savour Chef’s twist on Parsi bakery chicken puffs – Bombay Daak’s Duck Puff with a unique duck ghee roast filling. Some of these calibrations of strong flavours – while fascinating – can get rather overwhelming if you try too many in a single sitting. If you face such a dilemma, take comfort in the warm morsels of Maska Bread – a gorgeously soft and buttery 110% Hydration bread enhanced by green mango and three types of cheese. If you’re in need of a sweet fix, opt for the Cheese Cherry Pineapple. Here, the iconic skewers have been reimagined as a dessert featuring cheese biscuit, pineapple softie and Luxardo cherries.
Photo Credit: Nikhil Vaidya
“Indian drinking culture has long been overshadowed by international influences, but at Bombay Daak, we aim to shift that narrative,” says Yathish Bangera. So if you’re stopping by Bombay Daak, you can expect a delicious adventure. You get a marvellous opportunity to discover India through sips and bites that combine novelty and familiarity.
Address: Shop No – 5 / 21, ONGC Complex, HIG Colony, Nityanand Nagar, Reclamation, Bandra West, Mumbai.
