Most foodies who travel for food (who doesn’t these days) across Tamil Nadu will tell you about Madurai’s love for mutton. If chicken is your thing, then the same culinary enthusiasts will recommend a trip to cities in the erstwhile Kongunad region. This belt in Tamil Nadu’s south-west includes cities like Coimbatore, Salem and Erode. Kongunad cuisine has its own distinct culinary identity with original flavours and the use of ingredients like freshly grated turmeric, coconut slivers and free-range chicken.
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The Kongunad region is famous for chicken farming and poultry – Namakkal is one of Tamil Nadu’s centres for egg production. Even though most homes and restaurants in large urban centres like Coimbatore have made the switch to broiler chicken, many of the traditional recipes still lean on high quality free-range chicken that is available in the region. Almost each time I come back to Coimbatore; I discover a new chicken dish at one of the city’s emblematic eateries.
I still remember my first meal at Valarmathi mess, a family run restaurant in the Racecourse Road area where I tried the pichu potta kozhi (shredded chicken) cooked in traditional Kongunad style. And then there is the Pallipalayam chicken – pan fried nuggets of chicken flavoured with a zesty masala and finished with coconut slivers, that I first tried at Haribhavanam.
During my last visit to Coimbatore, I was at O Cafe, the all-day diner at the O by Tamara where the team had put together a special Kongunad Thali that included some staples from the region like the Arisi Paruppu Sadham. Until recently most of the local dishes were served only at family-run restaurants or in homes. Quite a few newer restaurants in the city like O Cafe are changing that. One of the standout dishes in this special platter was the Kongu “Nattu Kozhi’ varuval (tender chicken with freshly ground spices).
Kozhi varuval translates to chicken fry from Tamil. This dish uses a freshly made masala (see recipe) that elevates the flavour profile of this dish. The masala blends quite a few spices including kalpasi (also known as Dagad phool in Hindi) This spice releases a very distinctive earthy, almost smoky flavour when it’s heated with cooking oil or ghee. It might seem like a laborious process, but making your own fresh masala is well worth the effort. This dish works well as an accompaniment with rice or dosa. You can reduce the gravy by simmering it and serve it as an appetiser.
Kongu Nattu Kozhi Varuval – Recipe
Ingredients
500 gm chicken cut into small pieces
2 tbsp gingelly oil
2 sprigs curry leaves
1/2 cup small onions sliced
1 tomato: finely chopped
2 tbsp Ginger garlic paste
1/4 tsp turmeric powder
2-3 tbsp home-made chicken masala power. (Recipe below)
1/4 cup chopped coriander leaves for garnish
Salt (to taste)
To roast (for chicken masala )
1 tbsp coriander seeds
1 tbsp fennel seeds
1 tbsp whole pepper corns
1 tbsp cumin seeds (Jeera)
2-3 Black stone flower (kalpasi)
3 Cloves
1 Cardamom
2 Cinnamon sticks
3 Dried red chilies
1 Bay leaf
5-6 Cashews
The home-made chicken masala powder works best. You can also use a chicken masala powder from your local supermarket instead.
Method
1. Dry roast all the ingredients (in the “to roast ” list) on a low flame for about 2-3 minutes. Allow it to cool. Transfer these ingredients to a blender. Grind to a coarse powder.
2. Heat oil in the pan before adding fennel followed by shallots and curry leaves. Saute the onions until they turn golden brown. When the onions turn brown, add chopped tomatoes. Stir and saute till it gets mushy.
3. Add the chicken pieces, turmeric powder, and salt, mix well and cook for bout 2-3 minutes.
4. Add the freshly ground masala powder along with the appropriate quantity of water. Close the lid and allow it to cook for about 20-25 minutes or until the chicken is completely cooked. Stir in between if required.
5. Let it simmer for about 3-4 minutes once the chicken is cooked till it reaches the desired consistency.
6. Garnish with fresh coriander.
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Serve hot with rice or as a starter
